Sunday, February 16, 2025 - Hambantota, Sri Lanka

In the far south of Sri Lanka, Hambantota is a village with a colorful and storied traditional past and great promise for the future.  This gateway to Sri Lanka is rich in resources and since being devastated by the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami, has put great emphasis on rebuilding and moving progressively into a central role in the development of the southern region of Sri Lanka.  The area has undergone a number of major development projects including the construction of a new seaport and international airport which was finished in 2013.  The local government's plan is to transform Hambantota into the second major hub of Sri Lanka after Colombo.  

Although local government has lofty plans for massive growth in the infrastructure of Hambantota, their plans have not yet come to fruition.  Conference centers, stadiums, sports fields, and other massive structures sit idle and/or underutilized, yet loan repayments are still owed to China.  One has to wonder how, and when, China will choose to collect.

In the 1400's, this area was known as the Kingdom of Ruhuna.  The kingdom received many travelers and traders from Siam, China and Indonesia seeking to anchor in the harbor.  The ships or large boats these traders traveled in were called "sampans" and that means port so the port where the sampans anchored came to be known as Sampantota.  After some time the area came to be called Hambantota.  The harbor was used by sailors from Malay in the 1400's, well before the European colonists arrived. Consequently, the prominent Malay community part of the population is partly descended from the sailors from Malay who traveled to Hambantota and over time settled down. 

In ancient times, about 200 BC, the first kingdom of Sri Lanka was a thriving community.  This region played a vital role in building the nation of Sri Lanka and nurtured the Buddhist culture.  Today, Buddhism is still the majority, with Islam the second largest religion, with a small number of Christians and Hindus.  In modern times, from 1796 to 1948, Sri Lanka was a British Crown colony.  The nation received its independence in 1948 and elected its first prime minister.  Once independence was obtained the nation began rebuilding, however in 2004 Hambantota was devastated by the Indian Ocean Tsunami and a reported 4,500 people were killed in this area.  After the tsunami, rebuilding once again began, however, redevelopment has been slowed due to lack of funds and massive government corruption.

Although there were major plans to build up the infrastructure in the area and improve the local economy, many of the projects, although completed, are not pulling in enough income to pay for themselves and make them profitable.  For example, the new international airport, built for $282 million dollars, has seven passengers each day passing through its gates when it was anticipated that the airport would be used by millions.  The cricket stadium, completed in 2009, was built with $7.86 million dollars in hopes of hosting the international cricket games, but their bid failed so the grounds occasionally host weddings/receptions to bring in small amounts of money.  A modern power station was constructed but it is built using sub-standard materials and doesn't stand up to international standards.   Nearly all of these projects were funded with Chinese money and currently Sri Lanka has a debt of $101.8 million, with 28% of the debt owed to China.  

Hambantota was anxious to develop a deep sea port to take advantage of their strategic location as ships move goods through the Suez Canal to save time, fuel and transit costs to many parts of the world. Funds were needed and, once again, the government turned to China, and granted them a 99 year lease.  Today, there are major security concerns due to Sri Lanka's geographic location in the central-northern Indian Ocean, next to some of the world's busiest sea lanes.  Concerns about China's influence in this area create concerns in the international community. This location has a profound impact on maritime interests and perspectives.  It creates significant economic opportunities, as well as threats to its security and the environment.  Any blockage to this port could cause a serious disruption to international shipping worldwide.  So, although Hambantota has natural resources, including crude oil, seafood, clothing, fruit and vegetables, rubber, tobacco, salt and other valuable products, many of its major plans have not yet been realized and the area is in tremendous debt to China.  Only time will tell the path that this region will follow.

Now, as promised, here's a bit about Bob's activity today since all tours demanded too much walking/climbing for me. Here's Bob:

The Temple of the Great Kings is a legendary Buddhist temple which dates from the 3rd century B.C. An ascent of 550 steps lead us to this incredible site, which was located approximately 676 feet (25 stories) above ground level and offered spectacular panoramic views of the countryside.  Before we began our climb we were greeted by school children who were in classes both in classrooms and out in the open air.  Joining us on the climb were a few monkeys looking for handouts.

Known as the Rock Temples of Mulkirigala, this ancient collection of Buddha statues rises from the surrounding forest of coconut trees in stunning fashion.  These temples are priceless storehouses of literature and history.  The manuscripts found here in 1826 were utilized for the first translation of the Mahavamsa (Great Chronicle), which unlocked Sri Lanka's early history.  The most extraordinary features of the temple were its seven cleft-like caves, which extend across five terraced levels.  

 

Once the caves were reached a number of iconic Buddha statues were viewed, interspersed with various figures housed inside these caves.  In addition, we saw ancient Buddha texts etched on the walls and some fascinating wall paintings depicting sinners pleasuring themselves with the forbidden fruit on earth, then paying for it with an afterlife of eternal torture.  Finally, we saw the exquisite and vibrant frescoes that told the ancient stories of Jataka, known as the "Jataka Tales."   

Once the caves were toured, the top of Mulkirigala was reached and the collection of Buddha's and frescoes were visited it was time to descend the 550 steps back down to the bus.  Although it may not sound like it, going down is sometimes more demanding that climbing up!  Everyone was glad to be back on the ground again and back on the air-conditioned bus for the 1-1/2 hour drive back to the ship.

Some of the guests had to make a pit stop in Mulkirigala.  The facilities were quite primitive, especially for the ladies since the only facility was a squat toilet!!  Not a big deal for the standing up men. 

So, that's how our time was spent today.  Since I had to sit out any activities for today, I am eagerly looking forward to tomorrow.  We will arrive in Columbo, Sri Lanka early tomorrow morning.  Bob is being a great sport and accompanying me on a tour to have high tea in the city.  I'm sure he would rather be doing something a bit more active but he is giving up those activities and spending the day with me.  I'm a lucky girl!!!