Saturday, March 22, 2025 - Accra, Ghana

For the last three days our ship has been sailing to Accra, Ghana.  We have been fortunate to have very calm seas so were able to experience all the activities on the ship without difficulty.  We also celebrated Bob's birthday so it was a very special time for us.  Now, we have an opportunity to enjoy a return visit to this West African city.  Due to the increased size of our ship this year we had to dock in Tema, the main port of Ghana, which is nearly an hour drive from Accra. The port was filled with shipping containers and freighters anchored in the bay, waiting to dock and unload the cargo.

Accra, the vibrant capital of Ghana, is a bustling metropolis that seamlessly blends rich history with modernity.  Located on the southern coast of the Gulf of Guinea, this cosmopolitan city is a melting pot of cultures, offering a fascinating blend of colonial architecture and contemporary skyscrapers.  Our guide proudly informed us that Ghana is the closest country to the center of the world!  He also told us that English is the main language, although the twi language is also spoken by 50% of the population.  Ghana was the first country to gain independence from Great Britain.There are 77 ethnic groups, with Akans being the largest ethnic group.   Ghana has a stable economy with 10% of the world's gold mined in the country. They are also the second largest coco exporter in the world.  

When a lasting democracy was finally restored in 1992, there was a return of a free press.  Since then, Ghana has been a peaceful, organized and stable country.  They have high education standards which are the envy of the entire African continent.  Within the African continent, Ghana is a relatively wealthy town.  It is one of Africa's most dynamic and advanced capital cities.  It is a bustling environment with a population of 5.5 million. Although there are high hopes for the country's future, Ghana still has some major challenges they must face.  Corruption continues to run rampant throughout the government.  In addition, the country is deep in foreign debt.  Currently, they are $51 billion in debt.  Approximately 42% of the people continue to live below the poverty line.  Ghana continues to be a country of haves and have nots.

Accra's central business district is a hub of activity, filled with historic landmarks which attract visitors from around the world.  Its diverse neighborhoods are steeped in history and culture.  The traditional markets are bustling with activity, offering a wide array of colorful textiles, vibrant handicrafts and delicious local cuisine.  The streets are filled with the enticing aromas of traditional dishes.

Despite its rapid growth and urban challenges, Accra remains a remarkably resilient city.  Its residents are known for their warm hospitality and lively spirit.  Locals often gather in lively pubs to watch soccer matches or enjoy the city's vibrant nightlife.  The glittering beaches are popular spots for relaxation and socializing, offering a serene escape from the bustling city life.

Ghanaian culture is deeply intertwined with Accra's identity.  The city hosts numerous festivals throughout the year.  Music and dance play a significant role in the culture, with genres like highlife and traditional music being integral to social gatherings and celebrations.  Highlife is an interesting Ghanaian musical sound that originated along the coastal cities of Ghana in the 19th century.  It encompasses multiple local fusions of African and western jazz melodies.  It uses the melodies and rhythms of traditional African music but is typically played with Western instruments.  

Finally, Accra is a dynamic and captivating city that embodies the essence of Ghana's rich cultural heritage.  Its blend of historical significance, cultural diversity, and modern amenities make it a truly unique and exciting place to explore.  About 70% of Ghanians are Christian, but they mix their faith with traditional beliefs which often centers around a supreme being but with lesser deities associated with nature, and the veneration of ancestors who are seen as intermediaries between the living and the spirit world, influencing events and ensuring prosperity. During our visit we took a deeper dive into the area's history and the Ghanaian culture.  We were fortunate to experience the vibrant energy of this bustling African city again as we have visited Ghana a couple of times and found it to be a fascinating place.

We decided to take a tour today that we have taken a couple of times before, but found it so interesting that we decided to take it again!  Although we started the tour from a different port, the places we visited were the same, and the routes we took were identical to the ones we have driven on previous trips. Here's a few of the highlights from our day.

Our first stop was at the renowned Erico's Carpentry Coffin workshop, a hub of creativity and craftsmanship.  Brilliantly designed fantasy coffins, created with meticulous precision, adorn the shop.  Vibrant colors and intricate carvings transform these coffins into stunning works of art.  Skilled artisans work diligently, creating elaborate designs that reflect the deceased's life and passions.

From majestic eagles to gigantic fish, each coffin is meticulously designed and are a testament to Ghanaian craftsmanship. Caskets may take weeks to months to create and may cost $600-$1,000, depending on the intricacy of the design.  Everyone was struck at the whimsical creations which are crafted slowly and carefully.  The shop's fame has spread globally, attracting onlookers and even buyers, throughout the globe.

Once we left the casket shop and were back on the bus our guide shared that it takes time to bury the dead.  It might take weeks or even months.  The body is kept in the morgue while the upcoming activities are planned.  During the first week the family gathers to plan the funeral and the date is set.  The funeral lasts two day to one week, but a chief's might last two to three weeks. Relatives need time to arrive from other parts of the world.  Burials are always on Saturday and Sundays are reserved for a celebration of Thanksgiving dedicated to the deceased.

We had a leisurely sightseeing drive past some of the notable buildings in the city, including the Parliament House, Supreme Court buildings, and the central library. Although we were scheduled to make a stop at the Light House, unfortunately the 121 steps were in a state of disrepair and we were relegated to a drive by with a very brief photo stop.

Our next stop was at the Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum and Park.The magnificent park beautifully honors the nation's visionary first president.  The stunning mausoleum symbolizes peace and unity with its striking upside-down sword shape and gleaming black star.  Surrounded by lush gardens, a comprehensive museum showcases Nkrumah's remarkable life, leadership and ambitious vision.

Our final stop was at the local traditional arts and crafts outdoor market.  Ghana's traditional arts and markets are vibrant and lively hubs showcasing the country's rich cultural heritage.  The bustling spaces were filled with intricately woven Kente cloth (boldly patterned fabrics) and exquisitely carved wooden sculptures.  Artisans displayed their skillfully created dazzling bead work, delicate pottery, and unique brass items using ancient techniques.  The colorful stalls brimmed with creativity, and offered beautifully handcrafted goods that are both functional and decorative.  These markets preserve Ghana's traditions while attracting curious visitors and buyers worldwide.

Once we left the market we drove back to the pier but since we docked in an alternate port this morning we had the time to drive through both the new city and old town of Accra.  It is such an interesting experience to see the new and modern setting next to the very humble shops of individuals selling their wares.  

As we drove, our guide gifted us with copious amounts of information about his beloved country.  As we passed the national flag when leaving the port he told us that the red represents the blood of those who died in the country's struggle for independence.  Gold represents the mineral wealth of the country. Green symbolizes the country's rich forests and the black star stands for their freedom. He said colors are very important in their culture.

As we drove there were many open ditches which smelled like they might also serve as sewers.  We needed to be very careful when getting off and back on the bus.  There was also trash everywhere along the sides of the road and any open space.  However, there were also beautiful parts of our drive, including beautiful murals painted on wooden walls that had been constructed along the road and on the sides of many buildings. We saw goats, cows and chickens wandering around freely around the sides of the roads and our guide told us that the animals are raised free-range.  They have owners who let them out in the mornings and the animals come home at the end of the day with no one needed to collect them!!! 

As we traveled along their major highway leading to the port, we passed the building which serves as the seat of government.  It was a very interesting structure and was built like an enormous stool.  Our guide told us it represented what the Capitol building in Washington D.C. represents in the U.S.

The traffic became quite heavy as we made our way through the city. There were many street vendors selling their wares along the sides of the street, as well as walking down the center of the highway with baskets on their heads piled high with merchandise!!! 

Our guide told us it was called the "street mall" because the vendors sell everything you need, including food, drink, snacks, etc.  He told us it was like going to the mall!  Another big difference as we drove was the HUGE amount of horns honking on the road.  While were were "stuck" in traffic, people were encouraged to ask our guide questions.  

Bob asked if military service was mandatory for young people when they finished high school.  Our guide told him that it was voluntary only.  However, it is mandatory for all high school students to complete a year of service immediately after  graduation. The service can be in a variety of areas, the government will pay you for your service, and the company/agency may hire you at the end of your service.  However, if you are not hired then you are free to find your own employment when our year of service is completed.  

Bob also asked about Chinese involvement in Ghana.  He was told that China has lent Ghana large sums of money to complete infrastructure projects, as well as actually building many large construction projects.  However, he said, the Chinese presence can be problematic.  He said they arrive and do illegal mining in forests. They pan for gold, rinse the residue in the pans in the river/streams and they pollute the water. Our guide answered many questions asked by members of our group.  He was knowledgeable and patient with all of the questions and was excited to share the information with us. He was a skilled guide and we really enjoyed our time with him.

Once we had completed our tour of the city of Accra, we drove back to the ship and into WONDERFUL air conditioning and a late lunch on the pool deck! It was a good day.  Now, tonight there is a birthday celebration for one of our fellow passengers as well as a cabaret featuring one of our fabulous onboard cast so I must keep myself awake until the day is finished!  Tomorrow we are still in Ghana, but are moving to Takoradi, which we have also visited previously.  It will be good to see how it has grown in the last couple of years.