Tuesday, March 18, 2025 - Luanda, Angola

Angola is one of the least visited countries in the world for tourism purposes, yet it has a lot to offer.  Luanda, the vibrant and bustling capital of Angola, is a city steeped in history and culture.  Located along the picturesque Atlantic coast, this sprawling metropolis is Angola's largest city and a vital economic hub.  Its warm, tropical climate complements its scenic coastal plains and modern skyline, which is dotted with tall skyscrapers and wide avenues that exude a cosmopolitan charm.

The government of Angola made it a lot easier to visit the country in 2023 by introducing visa free entry for citizens of over 90 countries.  Visiting this country is certainly an opportunity to visit a road less traveled. I must admit that I had some trepidation about exploring this port but after doing some independent research and talking with onboard staff I felt confident enough to leave the ship for a few hours and take a tour.  We were instructed to remain with the group at all times, leave all jewelry and valuables onboard, remain low-key during our visit and don't draw unnecessary attention to ourselves.  Luanda is considered very high crime area, including violent crime. It is classified as a Level 2 travel advisory from the U.S. Department of State.  We were also instructed to be extremely careful about the photos we take of any government or government-related buildings.  We were warned that if the authorities see you they will confiscate your camera! We were cautioned to manage our expectations, since this remains a third-world country.  

Luanda is Angola's main seaport and is the capital of the Luanda Province.  It is the most populous Portuguese-speaking capital city in the world. In 2020 the population reached more than 8.3 million inhabitants, which is a third of Angola's population.

Founded in 1576 by Portuguese explorer Paulo Dias de Novais, Luanda has a rich colonial heritage.  Initially named Sao Paulo da Assuncao de Loanda, it became the administrative center of Portuguese Angola in 1627.  During the 17th and 18th centuries, Luanda was tragically central to the transatlantic slave trade, serving as a major port for shipping enslaved individuals to Brazil.  This dark chapter in its history contrasts sharply with its later development into one of the most developed Portuguese cities outside Europe by the 19th century.

In the 19th century, still under Portuguese rule, Luanda experienced a major economic revolution.  The slave trade was abolished in 1836 and in 1844 Angola's ports were opened to foreign shipping.  By 1850, Luanda was one of the greatest and most developed Portuguese cities in the vast Portuguese Empire outside Portugal, full of trading companies, exporting palm and peanut oil, wax, timber, ivory, cotton, coffee and cocoa.  A bourgeoisie class was born during this time.  In 1889 the governor opened the gates of an aqueduct which supplied the city with water, a formerly scarce resource, which laid the foundation for major growth.  In 1940, 14.6% of Luanda's inhabitants were white and by 1970, it had become a wealthy cosmopolitan city of  over 475,000 with 26% Europeans, 10.5% mixed race., and the remaining 63.5% a mixture of African ethnic groups, mainly Ambundu, Ovimbundu, and Bakongo.  Luanda continued its economic prosperity and growth and by 1974 it reached record highs.  In 1982, a report referred to Luanda as the "Paris of Africa".

In 1975, Angola received its independence from Portugal.  Luanda was already a modern city with the majority of its population being African but also had a strong minority of whites with Portuguese origin. However, with the advent of independence and the start of the Angolan Civil War in 1975, most of the white Portuguese Luandans left as refugees and many traveled to South Africa.

Today, Luanda is a dynamic blend of contrasts.  The lower city boasts a bustling commercial and industrial district while the upper areas are often marked by poverty-stricken neighborhoods known as musseques.  Despite these challenges, the city has undergone significant reconstruction since the end of Angola's civil war in 2002.  New highways, modern housing projects, and improved infrastructure have transformed parts of Luanda into a modern urban center. 

Luanda's population has been growing quite rapidly and it has become a major concern because the population has multiplied and outgrown the capacity of the city.  People from surrounding villages have been flooding into Luanda looking for a better life and consequently many areas continue to struggle with extreme poverty. However, emphasis on how to handle the increase in the city's population has now become a priority. Major social housing is being constructed to house those who reside in slums.  A large Chinese firm has been given a contract to construct the majority of replacement housing in Luanda. 

Culturally, Luanda is a lively hub for Angolan traditions and Portuguese-speaking influences.  It is home to prestigious institutions, museums, libraries, and historical archives which preserve its rich heritage.  The city's vibrant music scene, particularly its kuduro beats (a contemporary music genre) and traditional semba rhythms (where partners press their bellies together) reflect its dynamic spirit.

However, with all of its forward movement, Luanda also faces stark inequalities.  While some areas flaunt luxury hotels and expensive restaurants catering to affluent residents and expatriates, many locals live in impoverished conditions.  Despite being one of the world's most expensive cities, ongoing efforts aim to address housing shortages and improve living standards for all its inhabitants.

In essence, Luanda is a city of resilience--a place where history meets modernity where challenges inspire growth, and where its people continue to shape an extraordinary future amidst their vibrant surroundings.

Now, I'll share a little bit of how we spent our day in this mysterious, exciting city. 

We had been warned repeatedly to lower our expectations and guard our belongings, leaving all valuables onboard the ship. We were prepared for a dreary, depressing atmosphere with drab, concrete buildings.  However, to our delight we were greeted by a group of dancers in traditional outfits who lined our gangway and danced continually as we left the ship. 

When we walked towards our bus, the guide had a huge smile on his face, started dancing with the music and greeted us with an extremely warm and friendly hello.  The joy that emanated from him and the rest of the local people was palpable! We were thrilled to have such a personable guide, since our onboard excursion staff, rightfully so, warned us that the tour guides have no formal training in how to work in the tourism industry. 

Our cruise line always arranges the best guides and transportation available.  However, we were prepared for our tour buses to be a mishmash of autos and old buses without air conditioning.  To our delight and amazement the buses had air conditioning and were all the same design and size.  They looked like they were in great condition and it gave us a feeling of confidence. I am always very happy when we are prepared for the worst case scenario and then are pleasantly surprised. Today has certainly started off as one of those lovely times.   Today was off to a great start!!!

Once everyone had boarded our bus, we were off to explore this mysterious, intriguing area.  Once we left the pier we drove along Marginal Bay, with the commercial part of the city on one side, and views across the bay on the other side.  We drove past the Ingreja de Senhora de Nazare, a small church and a National Monument.  This 17th century Catholic church, was built as a way of thanking God for having survived a shipwreck on a voyage from Brazil to Angola.

Next, we visited the old Iron Palace "Palacio de Ferro" which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It is believed to have been built and designed by the famous architect Gustav Eiffel, or by someone associated with Gustav Eiffel, builder of the world famous icon, the Eiffel Tower in Paris and the Statue of Liberty in New York City.  The history of the structure is shrouded in mystery since no official record of it exists.  It is believed to have been pre-built in the 1890's in France and was destined to be placed in Madagascar via boat.  Instead, the building ended up in Angola's Skeleton Coast after the ship carrying it drifted with the notorious Benguela currents.  Portuguese rulers of the colony then claimed the ship along with its contents, including the palace.  Currently, the building is undergoing a renovation funded by profits from Angola's oil boom.

Our next destination was the Gothic-style church of Los Remedios, which was built in 1719 as a chapel.  The church was reformed in 1798 at the hands of Francis Xavier, who managed to accomplish the work with donations from the faithful.  Currently, dos Remedios Church is considered one of the most beautiful and best preserved churches of San Luis.

Next on our agenda was a visit to the Angolan National Museum of Anthropology which features an array of art, sculptures, tools, weaponry, jewelry, clothing and musical instruments.  It was founded in 1976 and is a cultural and scientific institution dedicated to the collection, research, conservation, presentation and dissemination of the Angolan cultural heritage.  

Collections are spread over 14 rooms and include farm implements, hunting and fishing memorabilia, and photographs of the Khoisan people.  Other features of the museum are its rustic furnace for melting iron and its room of masks, featuring the symbols of the Bantu people.

Our next top was to visit the San Miguel Fort.  The original fort was built in 1576 by Paulo dias de Novias.  It was a Portuguese fortress and was the administrative center of the colony in 1627 and was a major outlet for slave traffic to Brazil.  The fort was, for many years, a self-contained town protected by thick walls encrusted with cannons.  Inside the fort, elaborate ceramic tiles told the story of Angola from early years, and in the courtyard were large, imposing statues of Portugal's first king.   Its purpose was to defend the port and the city from attack when the Dutch seized Luanda.  Until 1975, the fortress served as the headquarters of the Commander-in-Chief of the Portuguese Armed Forces.  Today it holds the Museum of the Armed Forces.

 

 

As we drove along the New Marginal road we visited the unique Agostinho Neto Mausoleum, a huge stylized obelisk.  Rumor has it that this is the grave of Angola's first president, President Agostinho Neto.  Having very strong communist affiliations,  Neto died in 1979, and it is commonly thought that this structure was erected as a gift from the Russian government.

Afterwards, we drove through "Cidade Alta", or uptown, a pleasant airy and calm suburb above the rest of the city, with several pink colonial buildings.  We had the opportunity to see the Presidential Palace, together with the Prime Minister's office and the Ministries of Defense, Immigration, Justice, Health and the British Embassy.  We also saw the beautiful Catholic Church "Ingreja de Jesus", where many important people of Angolan high society get married.  However, taking photos in the area was forbidden due to the proximity of the presidential residence and heavy military security. The surrounding area is referred to as "high town" and as we drove we were able to catch a glimpse of the houses of parliament, both the new and the old buildings. The "high" town is evidently where the wealthy people live, shop and work.  

Once we transitioned out of the high town and drove back down the hill we drove past some areas that our guide told us are referred to as favelas in some countries. They are people living in extreme poverty in neighborhoods which have a very high crime rate.  It appears that there is an enormous disparity between the wealthy people living in high town and locals living in the "favelas."  

After our interesting, informative and eye-opening tour we realized that this is truly a city that has a rapidly changing face.  With all of the construction it would appear that Luanda is well on its way to regaining its mantle of yesteryear - the "Paris of Africa." We are so grateful we had the opportunity to visit this country.  We entered with a sense of fear and dread, but left with a better understanding of the issues facing this country and a  sense of hope and gratitude for the time we had to spend time with these joyful, welcoming people.