Friday, April 11, 2025 - Saint Peter Port, Guernsey

Saint Peter Port, or "Saint Peter in the Wood" is a picturesque parish nestled in the western part of Guernsey, in the Channel Islands.  This charming parish spans a little over 2 square miles, offering a delightful blend of countryside tranquility and historical allure.  The landscape of Saint Peter is predominantly rural, with lush green fields and winding lanes that exude peacefulness.  This charming and historic capital of Guernsey is a fascinating blend of medieval heritage and modern vibrancy.  Nestled dramatically on the island's eastern coast, this picturesque town boasts a rich history shaped by its strategic location and resilient community.

The town's story begins vividly in the 13th century, when Castle Cornet was majestically constructed on an islet to guard its bustling harbor.  Its history dates back to pre-Roman times, evolving from a natural anchorage.  A trading post/town existed there before Roman times, with a pre-Christian name that has not survived through the centuries.  This fortress evolved into a steadfast protector against invasions including fierce French raids.  The harbor, naturally sheltered and later meticulously expanded, became a vital hub for trade, particularly during the Anglo-Gascon wine trade era.  Its transformation into an artificial harbor in the 19th century further solidified its importance as a dynamic maritime center.  

Saint Peter Port's cobbled streets and steep alleys whisper tales of its medieval past. The town was never formally recognized as a town during the Middle Ages by either the English King or his parliament. In the 18th century, this charming village flourished remarkably as a storage warehouse for goods being shipped internationally.  Ambitious merchants innovatively expanded trade networks across the Atlantic, bringing prosperity and transforming the town into a beacon of entrepreneurial energy.  This era saw the construction of elegant Georgian houses and civic amenities that mirrored London's urban renaissance.

Saint Peter Port's natural beauty is characterized in the north by low-lying but not marshy land.  In the south, the land gets higher.  Grassy, gently terraced cliffs behind sea walls topped by trees characterize the southern part of the coast.

The community of Saint Peter Port is fascinating.  Historically, locals were nicknamed donkeys or anes, a testament to the parish's use of the beast of burden to deliver products from the docked ships to the top of the hills.  Its population of over 19,000 residents as of 2023, Saint Peter Port maintains a warm and welcoming atmosphere, making it an inviting destination for visitors. Geographically, Saint Peter Port borders several other parishes which enhance its appeal as a central hub for exploring Guernsey's western parishes. Since we haven't visited this area before we were anxious to start exploring this interesting area.

Twila's Tour:

Embarking on our island drive from Saint Peter Port was like unraveling a tapestry of vibrant hues and historical narratives.  As we set off from the picturesque town, known to locals as "Town," the cobblestone streets gave way to a scenic journey that weaved through Guernsey's lush landscapes.  The very narrow, winding lanes lined with green hedges added to the charm of this lovely place. The drive started near the bustling Albert Pier, where our cruise ship disembarked.  There was a flurry of activity in the area as cruises embarked and disembarked the tenders.

As our bus navigated northward, we paused for a photo stop at Pembroke Bay which gave us a quick glimpse of the turquoise waters that lap against the island's rugged shores.  The west coast beckoned next, with Vazon Bay and Cobo Bay unfolding like a canvas of golden sands and azure skies.  

The island remains lush and green throughout the year with brightly colored flowers painting the landscape. The mild climate and no frost makes it possible to have color year round.  It also makes it possible to grow a variety of fruits and vegetables and many residents have gardens.  When they produce more food than they need, they often place a box with the produce in front of their house on the street.  It's called a "trust system" where people can take the produce and leave the money in the box!  That would not work in the U.S!  Every few miles we passed stone towers and our guide explained there were 165 towers built in the 1700's as protection. At that time, invasions from the French, as well as pirates were frequently attempted and islanders needed protection.

The drive then veered inland, revealing the island's verdant heart at the local reservoir.  Here, nature's palette was on full display.  As we drove through the inland areas we saw horses, goats, sheep and cows grazing lazily in the green fields.  Our guide told us that wool sweaters is a major export  and exports 4,000 wool jumpers to Japan each year. Our guide was also very proud of other exports including Blue Bottle Gin and gauche bread. She also pointed out the Guernsey cows and told us they were distinguished by their very pale brown noses.  She was obviously very proud of her lovely island.  She pointed out some of the famous people who lived on the island at different times in their lives.  The most famous one was Victor Hugo who wrote Les Miserables while he was there.

We noticed that as we drove through the villages there were no house numbers.  Our guide explained that there are no numbers on any houses and that residents are allowed to select the name of their home.  They can choose any name they like, and examples of some of the homes we saw were titled "Our Dream," "Yellow Flower," etc.  The mail person sometimes has a very difficult time locating where the mail belongs. We also noticed a single stone extending out from the side of many of the old houses.  

Our guide explained that the stones are called a "witch stone."  Long-held traditional belief is that every Friday night the witches come out to dance with the devil.  After dancing all night the witches are exhausted and need a place to rest.  The residents extend one or more stones on their house to give the witches a place to rest so they don't come inside and bewitch the house. At one point on the drive, we passed a couple of very large boulders at which time our guide told us that it is believed that this is the actual location where the witches dance with the devil and these boulders are covering the entrance to fairyland! We noticed there were no traffic lights on the island.  There are only intersections with the word "filter" written on them. The traffic rule is simply whichever car reaches the intersection first crosses first.  Using this system there is rarely traffic accidents. There is very little crime on the island and life is lived at a much slower pace than most other places in the world.

As we made our way out of town, our guide shared a few facts with us about life in Guernsey.  For instance, she said that the island is the only place where there are only numbers on the car license plates.  Other places include a combination of letters and numbers on them.  She continued by telling us that 90% of the housing on the island is locally owned.  Some outsiders can purchase a home if they are moving to the island to do work that is needed, such as in the medical field, technology, etc.

As the tour concluded we took a scenic drive through the town where the historic essence was palpable.  The gentle slope of the nearby bays invite exploration with  paths winding through a tapestry of sea walls and wooded cliffs. A few times we stopped to enjoy the sea views.  There were small fishing boats setting on the wet sand and our guide explained that they have 33 foot tides on the island so when high tides arrive, these boats will be floating in the water!  That is also the reason for the high stone sea walls. The island drive wasn't merely a journey through the island's physical beauty but it was also a voyage through its rich heritage and traditions.  Every stop offered a glimpse into the island's storied past, from the quaint chapels to the historic fortifications that dot the coastline.  It was a very relaxed, enjoyable morning and I thoroughly enjoyed my time here.  

Now, here's how Bob spent his time on the island.

We began out walking tour with a lecture from our guide adjacent to the central market area.   He provided information about the tax benefits provided for the locals, the history of the community including the occupation by the Germans during WWII, and the origins of the nickname of "the donkeys."  The lectures were detailed and loooong with all of our group hoping they could find somewhere to sit down.  After about 20 minutes to standing in one place we moved on to begin our one mile walk to Castle Cornet.

Castle Cornet dominates the harbor, standing guard for over 800 years. This island fortress houses four museums and period gardens, offering insights into Guernsey’s maritime and military history. A daily noon cannon firing adds to its allure. Our walking tour explored the fortress and its grounds.  After one hour with our tour guide I decided to separate from the group and venture on my own into the town.

 

I have been having some issues with my cell phone so I located a computer shop in town to  see if they could determine why I am having trouble accessing the internet off of the ship.  A young lady inspected my phone and said that everything was in order in my settings--I just have an old model (#10).

Wandering through the historic district allowed me to mingle with the locals and explore the back alleys where there were few tourists.  St. Peter Port seamlessly blends history, nature, and modern comforts, making it a must-visit destination in the Channel Islands. Whether exploring ancient castles, strolling through botanical gardens, or savoring local flavors, visitors will find endless ways to enjoy this picturesque town.

In summary, Saint Peter Port radiates charm through its tranquil countryside, unique architecture, and vibrant community spirit.  Its accolades in horticulture and historical significance make it a truly delightful gem within Guernsey's landscape - a place where tradition meets natural beauty harmoniously.  Despite enduring hardships like World War II bombings, Saint Peter Port has resiliently preserved its charm. 

During our visit we were enchanted by its quaint lanes, vibrant markets, and stunning views overlooking the sparkling sea.  This delightful town remains an extraordinary blend of historical grandeur and lively modernity - a true gem of the Channel Islands.  Although we have thoroughly enjoyed our time here we are looking forward to arriving at our next port in Southampton, England where our dear friend, Anne, will join our world cruise until we disembark in New York City. We have missed her on our last cruises and are thrilled to be reunited with her. She hasn't been on the World Cruise with us since all of us were taken off the ship abruptly in Sydney, Australia in 2020 due to the COVID epidemic.