Monday, March 31, 2025 - Arrecife, Lanzarote, Canary Islands

The Canary Islands is a new destination for us, so we were quite excited about our visit to this lovely island.  We were also excited to experience the Spanish culture, since the Canary Islands are an Atlantic territory of Spain.  Arrecife, is a captivating destination.  It is a city that seamlessly blends historical charm with vibrant modernity.  Nestled on the picturesque south coast of Lanzarote, this delightful city boasts a Mediterranean-style promenade that encouraged us to take a leisurely stroll to enjoy the sparkling Atlantic Ocean views.  Its sandy beach, adorned with lofty palm trees and pristine golden sand offered a tranquil escape for us, especially after being immersed in the culture of the West Coast of Africa, which was quite frantic and chaotic.  I was grateful for the relaxed feel of this delightful island.

Lanzarote, is the mesmerizing second oldest Canary Island.  It emerged dramatically from volcanic eruptions 15 million years ago.  Its early history is intriguingly mysterious, with evidence suggesting settlement by the Majos, a resilient Berber tribe from North Africa, around 1000 BC.  These inhabitants, living primitively in caves and herding livestock, called their island Tyerogaka.

The island's fate changed significantly in the 14th century when Genoese navigator Lancelotto Malocello rediscovered it and named it Lanzarote.  In 1402, French explorer Jean de Bethencourt swiftly conquered the island, exploiting its defenseless geography.   The native Majos faced devastating enslavement and near extinction due to European diseases and exploitation.

Pirates repeatedly ravaged Lanzarote, adding to its tumultuous history.  Despite enduring hardships like the six-year Timanfaya eruption in 1730, the island transformed remarkably.  Fertile volcanic soil boosted agriculture until tourism flourished vibrantly in the 20th century, reshaping Lanzarote's destiny.

The city's architecture is a fascinating mix of sun-bleached buildings and freshly whitewashed structures trimmed in blue, creating a visually striking contrast.  The backstreets are charmingly disarming, with their unpretentious bars and buzzing shopping streets, making Arrecife an alluring hub of activity.  We found restaurants of all cuisines catering to diverse tastes, both local and international.  

Arrecife is steeped in history, as evidenced by its well-preserved landmarks.  There is an extraordinary repurposed mansion which now showcases the island's rich archaeological heritage with impressive exhibits.  The creative ingenuity is also on display in the lovely remodeled 19th-century townhouses which dot the landscape.

The city's natural beauty is equally enchanting.  The saltwater lagoon near the church is a serene retreat surrounded by homes and restaurants, some of which have been restored while others are still in need of repair. The blend of the old and the new adds character to the area.  The beaches provide breathtaking scenery as well as safe swimming.

Arrecife is an extraordinary city that effortlessly combines historical significance with modern vibrancy.  Its scenic beauty, cultural landmarks, and warm ambiance made our initial visit unforgettable. It provided a great opportunity for us to both relax as well as explore a new destination.  

Today, Bob and I decided to split up for our tours, since he is much more adventurous and mobile than I am.  So, I'll share my day first and then turn it over to him to talk about his day.

Twila's Day:

I chose to visit the National Park of Timanfaya and Salinas del Janubio. As we made our way to the park we learned about our surroundings.  We marveled at the spectacular panoramic views of the unusual landscape.  When we arrived at the park, we had breathtaking views of Lanzarote, which boasts an extraordinary, lunar-like landscape shaped by fiery volcanic eruptions.  We had the opportunity to take a walking tour through a portion of the park.  We were in awe of its rugged terrain, adorned with vibrant red, black, and copper hues.  As we meandered our way through the desolate terrain the surroundings felt eerily otherworldly. The park's dramatic craters and hardened lava flows showcased nature's raw power.  We marveled at the unique geothermal activity and sparse yet resilient flora.  It was a surreal atmosphere with enchanting beauty and certainly an unforgettable experience.

Once we had explored the park we boarded our bus and headed for Charco de los Clicos, which is also known as the Green Lagoon, which is a stunning natural wonder of the island.  It is nestled within the volcanic crater by El Golfo beach with its vibrant green hue coming from the algae thriving in its waters.  It was surrounded by a black sand beach and dramatic volcanic landscapes and, once again, offered breathtaking views and serene beauty. There was a reasonably short path from the parking lot to the lagoon but to reach it there was a slight uphill path with volcanic rocks, gravel and sometimes deep sand.  I decided that my little walker and I would give it a try so off we went to see the green lagoon!  Although by the time I arrived our group was on the way back but I actually made it all the way and enjoyed a lovely view of the lagoon, had a photo taken (for proof), and also had a panoramic view of the valleys.  It was an incredible experience. 

After we returned from our walk, took our photos and made a "required" trip into the gift shop we boarded our bus once again and drove toward our last stop, which was a private tour of the Salinas del Janubio (Junubio Salt Flats), where we watched locals working on the salt pans and then had a tasting of the salt, as well as locally produced goat cheese.  What a lovely surprise this area was to me.  We have visited salt pans before but have never visited one so extraordinarily beautiful.  These flats create a breathtakingly vibrant mosaic of salt pans, shimmering under the radiant sun.  Their striking hues, ranging from soft pinks to vivid white, contrast dramatically with the rugged black volcanic terrain.  

These salt flats are historically significant and were formed in the 18th century.  They are a testament to traditional craftsmanship.  The salt is harvested meticulously by hand and does not go through any industrial process.  It is stored in containers for a year, allowing the sun and wind to dry it into a pure product, produced without additives or transformation, and has a very limited production.  The process certainly reflects the enduring dedication of local artisans. Of course, there is the usual opportunity to buy the products, so I contributed to the local economy.  In addition to the salt products, they were also selling locally produced goat cheese and wine.  The cheese was delicious and if we we were allowed to take it on the ship I would have bought it but unfortunately it is not allowed.  However, the wine was not quite as delicious.  It was very, very sweet and thick and tasted like a dessert wine.  I don't think anyone in our group purchased it. However, it was interesting to have the opportunity to taste locally grown and/or produced products.

After our visit to the salt flats we re-boarded our bus for our return to the ship.  However, since we had some extra time our guide and driver decided to take the long way back to the ship and drove us through the multitude of grapes being grown to be made into the local wine.  It was a particularly interesting side trip since we had just tasted the wine produced from these grapes. The way in which grapes are grown on the island is extremely fascinating.  Instead of being grown in rows on vines, a hole, probably about three feet in diameter, is dug into the volcanic earth.  Then, a short wall made of volcanic bricks are placed in a semi-circle around the hole.  Finally, a small grape vine is placed in the center of the hole and allowed to grow until harvested for wine. The wall around the hole is for protection of the grapes, since winds can be quite strong on  the island and might destroy the plants.  It's quite an interesting site and very different from any way of growing grapes to which we are accustomed in the United States.

Also along the ride back to the ship we saw what we assumed were multi-colored plants growing both on the volcanic rocks and on the ground.  Our guide informed us that the coverings were actually lichens and algae which grow on many of the volcanic rocks and add an array of magnificent color to the landscape.  We witnessed a kaleidoscope of colors, including yellow, orange, green, and red.  These vibrant colors, contrasted with the rich, dark black of the volcanic rock, created a majestic array of shades and textures to the unearthly landscape. Occasionally, a vibrantly colored plant, such as a bird of paradise or bougainvillea would appear in the volcanic earth alongside the road.  It was always a spectacular and unexpected sight!

Now, I'll turn it over to Bob who will share with you the details of his very exciting day!  Here's Bob:

Our tour was designed to highlight the art and nature creations of César Manrique, a Spanish artist who lived 1919 to 1992, and transformed the Canary Islands, especially Lanzarote, during his lifetime.  His creations are located all over the island and are integrated into the surrounding environment enhancing the otherwise barren volcanic landscape.  

 

Our first stop was at the Canary Island Cactus Garden (Jardín del Cactus).  The entrance was unpretentious so expectations were not high but I was unprepared for the uniqueness and beauty of the Gardens as you exit the entrance.  The in Lanzarote’s Guatiza is a striking fusion of art and nature, designed by visionary artist César Manrique. 

 

Nestled in a former volcanic ash mine, the garden showcases over 1,400 cactus species from five continents, including towering specimens from the Americas and Africa.  Manrique’s modernized style harmonizes with the arid landscape through volcanic stone terraces and a dramatic amphitheater, while a colossal cactus sculpture marks the entrance.

 
Visitors explore labyrinthine paths lined with spiny giants, vibrant succulents, and whimsical features like a drooling cactus monster statue and a pond with orange goldfish.   

Though cacti are non-native--introduced by Spanish colonizers--their adaptation to  Lanzarote's volcanic soil and harsh climate mirrors the island's resilience.  Sitting on top of a hill is a windmill structure that provides accessible stairs for a panoramic view of the entire garden layout.  Afterwards, we boarded the bus and proceeded northward towards the next site.  The site is quite amazing and completely unexpected.  I totally enjoyed walking around the pathways meandering through the variety of cacti and other plants.  In one of the adjacent gardens, located outside the primary garden, is a large area of cacti that were destroyed by a fungus last year.  For some reason the fungus did not harm the Jardin del Cactus. 

Miro del Rio, a landmark viewpoint in Lanzarote’s Canary Islands, exemplifies the harmonious fusion of art and nature. Designed by César Manrique in the early 1970s, this architectural masterpiece integrates seamlessly into the volcanic cliffs of Risco de Famara, camouflaged with lava rock to blend with the landscape.  At about 1300 feet above sea level, it offers panoramic vistas of the Chinijo Archipelago, including La Graciosa, Montaña Clara, and Alegranza, separated by the narrow strait called El Río.

 

Manrique’s organic design features vaulted glass windows framing the Atlantic, a café with panoramic views, and a spiral staircase leading to a souvenir shop. The site’s history traces back to a 19th-century artillery position, repurposed by Manrique to celebrate Lanzarote’s unique geology. The minimalist interiors are adorned with sculptures and traditional elements, embodying Manrique’s philosophy of respecting natural environments. The viewpoint’s protected status underscores its role as both a cultural icon and a gateway to the Canary Islands’ volcanic beauty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jameos del Agua, located in Lanzarote’s volcanic landscape, exemplifies the harmonious fusion of natural and artistic creation. Formed by the collapse of lava tubes from Monte Corona’s eruption ~4,000 years ago, this site features three main openings referencing differing geological formations.

César Manrique transformed the caves into a cultural hub in the 1960s, blending basalt rock with minimalist design. Completed in 1977, the complex includes a subterranean salt lake, emerald-green pool, auditorium, and the volcanology museum Casa de los Volcanes.  Manrique’s vision emphasized preserving natural integrity while enhancing aesthetic appeal, a hallmark of his work across Lanzarote.  The site is recognized as a Site of Scientific Interest.

 

 

Our guide noted in her tour lecture that the islands receive about 30 days of rain a year and when it does rain the volume is small.  Just as we boarded out tour bus, at the end of our tour, it started pouring but the deluge lasted only about 20 minutes--good timing!!

Well, that's how both of us spent our days in this lovely, relaxed island.  We have thoroughly enjoyed our time here and look forward to more visits in the future.  The historical influences contrasting with the modern features create a lovely blend and we are thrilled we had the opportunity to spend time in this delightful place. 

After enjoying a lovely and entertaining day we will sail toward Lisbon, Portugal, which is the last stop on this segment of the world cruise.  When we arrive in Lisbon, we will have a majority of passengers disembarking and replaced by new passengers who will sail with us for the next segment.  One of our friends from previous world cruises will be joining the world cruise for the remainder of the time and we will be thrilled to have her onboard.  I will write again once we leave Lisbon.