Saturday, April 26, 2025 - Helsinki, Finland

Helsinki, the resplendent "Daughter of the Baltic" is a city whose history unfolds like a mesmerizing tapestry--richly woven with vibrant threads of transformation and cultural effervescence.  From its humble beginnings as a quaint Swedish trading post to its emergence as Finland's dazzling capital, Helsinki's story is one of extraordinary resilience, breathtaking metamorphosis and spectacular cultural blossoming. 

Founded in 1550, Helsinki was initially envisioned as a formidable rival to Tallinn, the  bustling city across the gulf.  However, the shallow waters of its original location at the mouth of the river proved woefully unsuitable for a thriving harbor, and the town languished in obscurity for nearly two centuries plagued by devastating fires, brutal wars, and even a calamitous plague in 1710 that nearly decimated its population.  Despite early struggles, including plagues, fires, and wars, Helsinki began to gain prominence in the 18th century with the construction of the Suomenlinna fortress, which bolstered its defense against Russian attacks.

In 1809 Finland was ceded to Russia, and in 1812 the Russian Tsar made Helsinki the capital of the Grand Duchy of Finland, replacing Turku.  This decision spurred rapid development.  The city center was rebuilt in a neoclassical style during this time and Helsinki was transformed from a small town into a vibrant regional hub.

Helsinki's role as Finland's capital was solidified after the country's independence in 1917.  It grew into a center of culture, trade, and politics, hosting events like the 1952 Olympics.  Today, Helsinki reflects centuries of resilience and growth. It's known for its progressive design and commitment to well-being and continues to evolve while celebrating its rich heritage. Many of its modern structures draw global admiration.  Helsinki focuses on its urban planning and devotes much of its funding to support education and culture  by increased money for schools, libraries and youth programs. 

Our tour today - Helsinki Highlights

Today we had a lovely overview of Helsinki and the beautiful countryside surrounding the city.  As we left the port and drove through town to our first stop, we had the opportunity to see the beautiful architecture and green parks which are plentiful throughout the city.  "Play Parks" have been established where children can play safely.  There are over 200 outdoor playgrounds throughout the city.  There are two types of city-maintained outdoor playgrounds in Helsinki:  those offering guided activities on weekdays and playgrounds for independent play.  All of the parks are open year-round and free for everyone to use.  Our guide told us that lunch is offered at the playgrounds so that young children don't have to leave the area and go home to have lunch! The park we passed looked quite clean, well-supervised and had lots of interesting play equipment. Our guide also shared that children in Finland are much more independent than in some other countries, since Finland is so safe.  Even young children take public transportation independently and can walk to-from school on their own, even at longer distances.  There is no fear of them being harmed.

 Our first stop was at the unique church of Temppeliaukio, more commonly known as the "Rock Church" because it is built into solid rock! This church is nestled in Helsinki's Toolo district, and is a breathtaking marvel caved directly into solid granite, earning its nickname "Church of the Rock." Its copper dome, shimmering with 72,000 feet of gleaming copper and encircled by 180 skylights, floods the rugged rock interior with ethereal natural light.  

The magnificent pipe organ has over 3,000 pipes and fills the church with glorious sound.The raw stone walls echo with extraordinary acoustics, and it has become a much loved venue for concerts.  The original design did not have exposed walls but it was discovered that the acoustics were superb in this raw state so the architects left them that way deliberately.  It was completed in 1969 and is an architectural gem which harmoniously blends nature and modernity, captivating over 500,000 visitors annually with its serene, otherworldly ambience. 

Once we completed our time in the church and hiked back to the bus, we made our way to the Senate Square.  The square was completed in 1852 and the cathedral dominates the square and can be seen from far out at sea. This square is a breathtaking jewel nestled in the city's historic heart, where time seems to dance gracefully through Neoclassical splendor.  The square is a harmonious stage framed by majestic landmarks:  the gleaming white Helsinki Cathedral soaring skyward, the stately Government Palace, the scholarly University of Helsinki and the grand National Library.  At its center stands the noble statue of Alexander II, watching over the lively square where the air often hums with enchanting digital carillon melodies.  Senate Square pulses with vibrant life, and often hosts festive markets and stirring moments to echo Finland's proud history.

Helsinki Cathedral, a dazzling white jewel crowned with a majestic green dome, soars above Senate Square like a beacon of neoclassical elegance.  Its soaring Corinthian pillars and statues of apostles stand sentinel, casting timeless shadows.  This empire-style masterpiece, bathed in Nordic light embodies Helsinki's  serene grandeur and historic spirit.

As we drove through the city to our next stop, we were all quite surprised when it began to snow!  The snowflakes fell softly on the windshield of our bus, but melted as soon as it hit the ground. The flakes just added a grace to our lovely drive through this magnificent city.  

As we drove, we left the city and entered the surrounding countryside.  The area surrounding Helsinki bursts with emerald forests, shimmering lakes, and wild berry patches.  Pine and birch trees whisper in the breeze while foxes and deer roam freely near tranquil paths.  The nearby islands sparkle under the sun, blending urban like seamlessly with nature's vibrant peaceful embrace. Our guide told us that wildlife sometimes wanders into the downtown area.  She said that occasionally a moose will stroll along the streets.  We were saddened to learn that when this happens, the animal may be shot and killed if it is determined they pose a danger to themselves or others.

 

 

 

Sibelius Park is a serene seaside haven named after Finland's legendary composer Jean Sibelius.  The park enchanted us with its lush birch groves, gentle ponds, and winding paths that encouraged us to take time for peaceful reflection.  Its crown jewel is the striking Sibelius Monument unveiled in 1967.  This mesmerizing sculpture, made of over 600 welded steel pipes mimics the ethereal waves of Sibelius' music, echoing the wind like a giant pipe organ.  The monument's abstract beauty blends with the natural surroundings, creating a harmonious tribute to Finland's musical soul. 

Helsinki's Market Square bursts with vibrant life, a kaleidoscope of colors and scents. Bright tents brimmed with fresh Finnish berries, smoky herring and succulent salmon, while artisans displayed intricate wooden crafts and warm woolen socks.  The air hummed with lively chatter, mingling with the salty breeze and calls of cheeky seagulls swooping for snacks. This bustling harbor market, framed by historic buildings and ferry boats, pulsed with tradition and modern charm, and invited us to savor the flavors and stories of Finland's heart.  The market was bustling with activity as tourists and locals took advantage of the beautiful but chilly weather to dine in the open air seating or meandered through the booths looking for souvenirs or handicraft bargains.

At the end of the day I decided to hike to the top of a hill to tour the Uspenski Cathedral, located in Helsinki.  The Cathedral is the largest Orthodox church in Western Europe and serves as the main cathedral of the Finnish Orthodox Church. Designed by Russian architect Aleksey Gornostayev, it was completed in 1868 after his death, with construction led by Ivan Varnek. The cathedral stands on Katajanokka peninsula, overlooking the city, and is renowned for its striking red brick architecture, green domes, and golden crosses. Dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, its interior features a beautiful iconostasis and several valuable icons. Uspenski Cathedral welcomes about half a million visitors annually.

As summer draws closer, daylight hours increase and Helsinki grows particularly enchanting, and will enjoy nearly 19 hours of daylight within the next month or so.  Such extended daylight hours allow ample time for exploring the many sites of this incredible city and surrounds, as well as sipping coffee in any of its plentiful cafes along the waterfront, which has been transformed into many lively neighborhoods. As Finland continues to rank as the "world's happiest country" (UN Sponsored, World Happiness Report, 2025), it continues to focus on community well-being and innovation.  Today, the city remains a beacon of creativity and resilience.  

We were here about 35 years ago with our children, staying in a motor home after having driven from the very northern city of North Cape.  Many of the same iconic tourist sites remain unchanged, just a bit more crowded.

We have enjoyed a fabulous time in our short visit to this remarkable city. It has overcome tremendous struggles such as wars, fires and plagues to become a thriving metropolitan city, populated by the world's happiest citizens.  Our last visit here was many years ago and we didn't spend much time in the downtown area so it was a treat for us to to enjoy a little more in-depth visit to this exciting city.  Now, we are on our way to another city which we have not visited for quite a few years.  Tomorrow we will be in Tallinn, Estonia.  Its cathedrals and medieval streets have turned Tallinn into a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  We are excited to see how this town has evolved since the last time we were there.