Thursday, April 10, 2025 - Saint Malo, France

Saint Malo, a captivating coastal city in Brittany, France, is renowned for its rich history, stunning landscapes, and vividly preserved heritage (and Bob would add, oysters)!  Nestled on the English Channel, this picturesque walled city was originally a fortified island, now connected to the mainland by an ancient causeway and modern avenues.  Its imposing ramparts encircle the old town, offering breathtaking views of the sea and surrounding beaches.

The city's history is as vivid as its architecture.  Named after Saint Maclou, a Welsh monk, Saint Malo became a haven for pirates in the 17th and 18th centuries.  These fearless corsairs contributed to its prosperity by plundering enemy ships under royal commission.  The 20th century saw disaster overtake Saint Malo when the city was almost completely destroyed during World War II.  In late 1944 General Patton's U.S. 3rd Army, advancing into western France, laid siege to the town with a large scale bombardment.  The area was invaded by more than 12,000 German troops.  About 8,000 Germans were in Saint Malo itself when the battle began.  The historic walled city was almost totally destroyed by the American military and British naval gunfire.  The German commander refused to surrender when asked to do so by the town's authorities.  He said he "would defend Saint Malo to the last man even if the last man had to be himself."  A week-long fire, kindled by the retreating Nazis, wiped out nearly all of the old buildings  The Germans surrendered in September, 1944 when the 300 man garrison ran out of drinking water.  The Americans had taken more than 10,000 prisoners during the fight. 

After nearly 30 years of painstaking reconstruction, Saint Malo has been returned to its former glory and transformed into one of the most popular places to visit in Brittany.  Many of its landmarks have been meticulously restored, preserving their authentic charm, and showcase a blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles. Although the restoration work was more painstaking than brilliant, the narrow streets and granite houses have been satisfactorily recreated, enabling enchanting Saint Malo to regain its role as a busy fishing port, seaside resort, and tourist destination.  Thankfully, the previous fighting spared many of the vintage houses and buildings which are today invaded by tourists during the summer months. 

Saint Malo is now a lively colorful place with ancient cobblestone streets.  It is often referred to as the "west end" where the skies blend with the granite and it looks like the end of the earth.  Although it has recaptured the spirit of its glory days, it has not quite retained its individualistic, fighting spirit.  However, it remains a radiant testament to resilience and maritime magnificence.

One thing we have learned in traveling the world is that flexibility is the key to having a happy and successful trip.  Today is one of the times we needed to practice our caring and flexibility.  We have very dear friends on board and one of them is in need of a bit of supervision. Instead of going on tour this morning I decided to remain on board to make sure our friend is doing well and I am here to help, if needed, while his spouse enjoys a bit of free time.  There was nothing to do to assist him so Bob decided to go on a previously scheduled tour.  I remained on board, in case he needed assistance. 

Bob's Day

Prior to the "official tour" I took the ship's tender to the Saint Malo port and wandered around the town for awhile.  Although there were many restaurants that served oysters and other French delicacies, I decided to by-pass the opportunity since I did not want to dine alone.  I did have the opportunity walk around inside the historic walled city.

 

After leaving St. Malo we boarded the tour bus and headed out for the picturesque medieval town of Dinan.

 

Dinan, located in the Brittany region of northwestern France, is a picturesque medieval town that offers a unique blend of history, architecture, and charm. Situated on a hill overlooking the River Rance, Dinan is renowned for its well-preserved historical heritage and vibrant cultural atmosphere, making it one of the most captivating destinations in Brittany.

 

Dinan's history dates back to the 11th century, when it was fortified with defensive walls to protect its strategic position above the Rance estuary. The ramparts, stretching about two miles and still largely intact, are among the longest in Brittany and provide stunning views of the surrounding landscape. The town played a significant role during medieval times as a trading hub and residence for the dukes of Brittany. Its fortifications survived English attacks in the 14th century, reflecting its resilience during turbulent periods.

 

One of the most iconic landmarks is the Château de Dinan, also known as Château de la Duchesse Anne. Built between the 14th and 15th centuries, this granite castle served as a stronghold for the dukes of Brittany.  Another notable structure is the Tour de l’Horloge (Clock Tower), a 15th-century belfry that offers panoramic views of the town and symbolizes the power of Dinan's bourgeoisie during medieval times.

Dinan is celebrated for its remarkably preserved medieval architecture. The town boasts over 130 half-timbered houses that line cobblestone streets, creating an enchanting atmosphere reminiscent of fairy tales. The town center is particularly striking, with its maze-like streets filled with artisan shops, galleries, and cafes. Notable religious buildings include the St. Sauveur Basilica and Saint Malo Church. The Basilica, dating back to the 12th century, features Gothic architectural elements and has been designated a Historical Monument since 1862.

 

Walking along the ancient walls offered breathtaking views of both the river and town rooftops while providing insight into their strategic importance during medieval times. 

Dinan stands out as one of Brittany’s most enchanting towns due to its rich historical legacy, stunning medieval architecture, and vibrant cultural scene. Whether wandering through cobblestone streets or exploring ancient castles, you feel transported back in time while enjoying modern comforts. With its blend of heritage and charm, Dinan is a jewel in France’s cultural landscape.

 

After re-boarding our tour bus we drove towards the port with a brief stop in the elegant Belle Epoque resort of Dinard.  We had the opportunity to stroll along the very crowded shoreline and take in the aromas of the local restaurants and view the historic mansions.  Many people were sun-bathing although the temperature was in the 50s.

 

We have enjoyed our visit to St. Malo, Dinan and Dinard.  Now, its time for us to continue our adventures as we sail to Saint Peter Port, Guernsey.