Saturday, May 24, 2025 - Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Halifax, Nova Scotia, is a city steeped in dramatic history and bursting with vibrant modern life.  Nestled on the wild, windswept Atlantic coast, Halifax dazzles visitors and residents alike with its stunning natural harbor, lively culture, and resilient spirit.

Long before European sails appeared on the horizon, the area now known as Halifax was the cherished territory of the Mi'kmaq people, who called it Jipugtug--the "Great Harbor."  Their deep connection to the land is still felt in the city's parks and along its sparkling shores.  

In the 1600's, adventurous French settlers arrived, establishing the colony of Acadia.  However, it was the determined British, who founded the bustling town of Halifax, transforming it into a strategic naval fortress and a vital military outpost.  The city's imposing Citadel Hill stands as a proud  reminder of those turbulent, formative years, when British redcoats and Mi'kmaq warriors clashed in the shadow of the dense, emerald forests.

Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, Halifax flourished as a fiercely loyal British stronghold, its cobblestone streets echoing with the footsteps of soldiers, merchants, and political agitators.  The city became a hotbed of passionate political activism, with visionary leaders championing responsible government and reshaping the destiny of Nova Scotia.  The arrival of the railway in the 1850's and the construction of grand Victorian buildings added layers of architectural charm to the city's picturesque skyline.

The 20th century brought both tragedy and triumph.  In 1917, the city was rocked by the catastrophic Halifax Explosion, a devastating event that shattered windows miles away and left the community scarred but unbroken.  During both World Wars, Halifax's bustling port became a lifeline for convoys, soldiers, and supplies, cementing its reputation as Canada's "Gateway to the Atlantic."

Today, modern Halifax is a dazzling blend of old and new.  The historic waterfront buzzes with energy, offering breathtaking views, charming shops, and mouthwatering seafood restaurants serving the freshest lobster and scallops imaginable.  The city's lively arts scene flourishes, fueled by a youthful population of students from six universities and enriched by multicultural influences, from the historic African Nova Scotian community to vibrant Greek, Lebanese, and Muslim neighborhoods.  Festivals, concerts, and colorful celebrations fill the calendar, transforming the city into a year-round playground for music lovers, foodies, and adventurers alike. 

Halifax's economy is robust and diverse, driven by dynamic sectors like healthcare, public administration, and retail.  The city's workforce is growing rapidly, and immigrants play a vital role in its continued prosperity.  While challenges like healthcare access and housing affordability persist, the  city's warm, welcoming spirit shines through.

In every season, Halifax enchants with its rugged beauty, storied past, and exuberant present.  It is a city where history and modernity dance together, creating a wonderfully colorful, ever-evolving tapestry on the edge of the Atlantic. We were thrilled to have a day to explore this exciting city.  Below is a description of how we spent our time here:

Our day in Halifax:  Peggy's Cove Coastal Drive

Peggy's Cove is a mesmerizing jewel perched on the rugged Atlantic coastline, where time seems to stand still in the middle of nature's spectacular beauty. This quaint fishing village, founded in 1811, is renowned for its iconic lighthouse, a stoic sentinel standing 50 feet tall on top of smooth, wave-sculpted granite boulders that have been shaped by glaciers over 400 million years ago.  The white and red octagonal form casts a guiding light over the surging ocean waves, a beacon of safety for fishermen navigating the treacherous waters.  

Although the sea looked fairly calm while we were there, our bus driver shared a photo with us he took of the waves crashing over the top of the lighthouse! Although visitors are given a stern warning about standing on the slick boulders that surround the area, due to their very slippery surface and the chance of frequent rogue waves, large numbers of people flocked to the rocks to get a better photo of the area. Evidently, every year a few tourists are killed attempting such a feat.

The village itself is a charming mosaic of colorful wooden houses and weathered fishing shacks perched on stilts, surrounded by stacks of lobster pots and nets, evoking the enduring spirit of Atlantic Canada's maritime heritage.  The air was crisp with a salty sea breeze, and the landscape was softened by small gardens blooming defiantly on the rocky terrain.

Legend whispers through Peggy's Cove regarding the tale of Peggy, a young shipwreck survivor whose story is woven into the village's very name, adding a layer of mystery and romance to this already enchanting place.  

The legend of Peggy enchants visitors worldwide because it weaves mystery, romance, and resilience into a timeless tale tied to the rugged beauty of Peggy's Cove.  According to local lore, Peggy was a young shipwreck survivor whose story symbolizes hope and endurance against the fierce Atlantic elements.  This haunting narrative says that in the mid-1800's, a schooner wrecked on the jagged Halibut Rock, and only a young woman named Margaret, affectionately called Peggy, survived the stormy sea.  Rescued by local fishermen, she settled in the quaint fishing village and eventually married a local man.  Her story of resilience and the village's rugged beauty have made Peggy's Cove a beloved, iconic destination, forever echoing her name.

Since the little village is quite hilly, I decided to stay in a nice, warm and cozy coffee shop (Sou' Wester) while Bob walked around in the freezing weather for a few minutes to take photos.   We had been told that the "famous" entree  in this village was homemade gingerbread with lemon sauce and seafood chowder. So, of course, we had to indulge and we are happy to report that it was absolutely delicious and definitely worth its reputation. Once we finished our lunch we walked back to the bus and headed for our next destination which is where over 100 of the bodies who perished in the Titanic are buried.

 

After a lovely drive back to the city we arrived at Fairview Lawn Cemetery in Halifax.  The cemetery is a solemn sanctuary where the echoes of the Titanic tragedy linger in the salty Atlantic air.  Nestled on a gentle hillside the graves of 121 Titanic victims lie arranged in graceful curves mimicking the bow of a ship forever frozen in time.  Each modest gray granite marker, etched with the haunting date "Died April 15, 1912" tells a silent story--some bear names, others only numbers, a poignant reminder of lives lost and identities forever unknown.  The cemetery's quiet beauty is both heartbreaking and reverent, a poignant tribute to souls claimed by the icy depths of the North Atlantic. 

Among these graves rests the famous "Unknown Child," a tiny figure whose identity remained a mystery for decades until recent DNA analysis revealed him as Sidney Leslie Goodwin, a toddler lost in the disaster.  Our guide told us that visitors often leave small toys and flowers at his grave, transforming the site into a touching memorial of innocence lost.  Fairview Lawn Cemetery stands not just as a burial ground but as a vivid, living memorial where history and humanity converge beneath the ever-changing Nova Scotia sky, and invite reflection on tragedy, loss, and the enduring spirit of those who perished aboard the Titanic.

Once we left the cemetery we had a short driving tour through old town Halifax. Driving through old downtown Halifax is like stepping into a living history book.  The majestic town clock, perched on Citadel Hill, ticks faithfully since 1803, its Palladian elegance a timeless sentinel.  Nearby, the grand City Hall, built in 1890 with its Victorian charm, stands proud.  Saint Paul's Church, the oldest Anglican church in North America, whispers stories from 1750.  Each cobblestone street and historic building pulses with tales of Halifax's rich past, blending beautifully with modern life. Soon, we returned to the pier and boarded our ship, but not before spending a bit more money inside the cruise terminal.  After all, this is our last chance to shop in an international port before returning to the U.S!

The two days in this delightful port have been a complete surprise.  We discovered the charming, romantic Peggy's Cove with it's historic lighthouse, as well as tasty gingerbread and seafood chowder! We learned about the legend of the young girl who was shipwrecked and brought to shore, and then grew up in this lovely village.  We also truly appreciated visiting the cemetery and learning more about the Titanic victims who are buried there, particularly the unnamed baby who was eventually identified and had his name added to his grave and his tiny shoes returned to his family. It was a ray of happiness in the terrible loss of life. If anyone is in Eastern Canada, Halifax is definitely worth a visit and a lovely place to spend some time.

After being out of the United States of America since early January, this was our last foreign port!  We will now have one sea day and then will arrive in Boston, Massachusetts, USA!!!  So excited!  I'm particularly excited to be in Boston because my wonderful younger brother, Dane, and his wife, Claudia, will board our ship for the afternoon!!  They will drive from Connecticut and stay overnight in the city so they can spend time with us during the day.  It has been way too long since I've seen him so I'm very excited.  There's nothing better than spending time with family.  So grateful.