Tuesday, May 6, 2025 - Bergen, Norway

Norway's second-largest city is a place where the echoes of history intertwine with the salty sea breeze and the verdant embrace of seven majestic mountains.  This coastal gem, nestled along the western fjords, has a rich tapestry of history that gleams like sunlight on its Bryggen wharf.

Founded in 1070, Bergen was born into the Viking age's twilight.  The city emerged as a bustling trading hub, its wooden buildings standing defiant against time and tide.  Bergen's strategic location made it a gateway to the North Sea, where merchants and seafarers exchanged goods, ideas, and stories.  

The Hanseatic League, a powerful confederation of merchant guilds, established a stronghold here in the 14th century.  Their influence transformed Bergen into a vibrant center of trade, linking Scandinavia to the rest of Europe.  The Hanseatic merchants brought prosperity but also left an indelible mark on Bergen's architecture and culture. 

 

The city's heartbeat has always been its harbor.  In medieval times, Bergen thrived on the export of dried cod from Norway's northern waters--a trade that sustained its economy for centuries.  The colorful wooden warehouses of Bryggen, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, stand as silent witnesses to this maritime legacy.  These structures, with their weathered facades and creaking timbers, whisper tales of bustling markets and voyages across tempestuous seas.  

Bergen's history is not without its trials.  Fires swept through the city multiple times, consuming its wooden buildings but never its spirit.  Each time, Bergen rose from the ashes, rebuilding itself with resilience and determination.  The city also faced challenges from foreign powers; during World War II, it endured German occupation but emerged with its cultural identity intact.

 The cultural soul of Bergen is as vibrant as its history.  It has long been a cradle for Norwegian art and music, producing luminaries such as composer Edvard Grieg.  His melodies capture the essence of Norway's landscapes--majestic yet melancholic--and echo Bergen's own character.

Today, Bergen is a harmonious blend of past and present.  Its cobblestone streets and historic buildings coexist with modern art galleries and cafes.  The annual Bergen International Festival celebrates its artistic heritage, while the fish market buzzes with life much as it did centuries ago. It's picturesque fjords, inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List, offer breathtaking vistas and unforgettable experiences.  Bergen's historic Bryggen district, with its preserved Hanseatic architecture, transported us to a bygone era of bustling trade and commerce.

Today, Bergen is a hub of sustainability, with ambitious plans to reduce emissions and promote eco-friendly transportation.  As the city evolves, its blend of traditional charm and modern innovation make it a captivating destination with breathtaking natural beauty and urban sophistication.  Bergen's unique blend of past and present provided an enchanting experience. We had only one day in this delicious port so we made the most of our time by taking a tour that would expose us to the most renowned, beautiful and historic landmarks in Bergen and its surrounds.  Here's a few details of how we spent our time here:

Our Tour:  Scenic Bergen

This morning we woke up to a beautiful sight as we sailed along the inlet of Norway's west coast to the enchanting town of Bergen. Bergen is a vibrant jewel nestled between steep mountains and shimmering fjords, where colorful wooden houses cling to the hillsides like a painter's palette.  This charming city, with its cozy cafes and historic Hanseatic wharf Bryggen, bursts with old-world European charm and lively culture.  Known for its unpredictable weather and thriving music scene, Bergen captivated us with its blend of nature's grandeur and rich history.  

Once we boarded our bus, our guide informed us that we were very fortunate to be visiting Bergen today.  She told us that out of a 365 day year, the town receives about 250 days of rain! She was quite surprised that the weather was so beautiful today.  It was about 51-degrees.  Although she thought that the weather was perfect, most of our passengers (including Bob and I) were freezing!  I was wearing three layers, including a down jacket, and I was still cold.  It was windy along the shore, which made it feel even colder!  However, we were grateful it wasn't raining as we made our way on the cobblestone streets.  

Our first stop was at the Fantoft Stave Church, which is a mesmerizing relic of medieval craftsmanship and Norse heritage.  To reach the church we made our way down a forest path of dirt and loose gravel, lined with tall, lush green trees.  Walking through the forest encouraged a feeling of peacefulness and serenity.  Originally constructed in 1150 in Fortun, it was carefully dismantled and transported to Fantoft in 1883 to save it from demolition, preserving its intricate wooden beauty for future generations.  This church, with its soaring, steeply pitched roofs and ornate dragon-head carvings, looks like a scene from a Viking fairy tale, blending pagan symbolism with Christian sanctity--a testament to Norway's transition from Norse mythology to Christianity.

Tragically, in 1992, the church was reduced to smoldering ashes in an arson attack linked to the early Norwegian black metal scene, leaving only the skeletal framework standing.  Yet, from these ashes rose a painstaking reconstruction that took six years, using 350-400 year old pine timber harvested from the mountains.  The rebuilt church faithfully mirrors the original, with its dark timber walls, Norse-inspired carvings, and intimate, dimly lit interior that invites quiet reflection.   We enjoyed a lovely visit before too many other tour groups arrived and packed the forest path.  

After leaving church we took a relaxing panoramic drive of the downtown areas of Bergen.  We passed the very active fish market.  The fish market, nestled along the historic Bryggen wharf, is a vibrant tapestry of colors, sounds, and scents.  Brightly colored stalls overflow with glistening fresh salmon, plump king crabs, succulent shrimp, and an array of Arctic delicacies.  The salty sea breeze carried the mingling aromas of grilled seafood and ocean freshness, which enticed many of our fellow passengers to have lunch or dinner there.  Since the 1200's, this lively market has been a bustling hub of trade and culture, where fishermen's tales blend with the chatter of eager buyers.  Visiting the fish market was a sensory adventure (some pleasant, others not so much), and immersed us in Norway's rich maritime heritage and culinary treasures.

As we made our way back through this charming town we passed the Gamlehaugen, the Royal Palace and the Grieghallen, the modern concert hall which was named after Norway's great composer Edward Grieg.  We also passed the elegant Bergen Theater which originally opened its doors to the public in 1906.  The monumental building was one of Norway's most characteristic buildings in the art nouveau style, with an audience capacity of 800, with standing room on the balcony.  In 1930 the theater tragically burned down and the theater was modernized.  However, in 1940 a bomb attack destroyed parts of the theater. Since then, many local people believe that the theater is inhabited by the ghost of actress Octavia Sperati, who died in 1918. Several people claim to have heard her voice and footsteps in the hallways.  Her portrait survived the bombing and some believe she performs small miracles to prevent the performance from being cancelled.

Just before we reached our last stop we passed the Bergenhus Fortress, which is one of the oldest preserved fortresses in Norway.  Several of the buildings represent cultural monuments of international value.  The fortress has had a central position in the country's history as a military, administrative and political center for the last several hundred years.

Our last stop was to explore the narrow streets of the Hanseatic Bryggen with houses dating back to the 18th century.  The original buildings were destroyed in a fire in the beginning of the 18th century and were rebuilt in the same style as the former buildings from 1350.  

As we strolled through the neighborhood, our guide told us about the fascinating development of this old Hanseatic city.  We had time to admire St. Mary's Church which dates back to 1170 and one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in Norway. The cobblestone alleyways and the streets covered in large wooden planks gave us the feeling of being transported back in town.  The shopping was plentiful, with a variety of authentic, but very expensive, Norwegian products for sale.   

Once we had some time to explore this fascinating city we re-boarded the bus and returned to the pier.  Once again, we have been extremely fortunate to have visited this lovely city on a bright sunny day when they are so rare!  I would love to return to Norway and spend more time in this area revisiting the spectacular fjords.  However, now it is time to sail towards our next port, Torshavn, which is located on the rugged, obscure Faroe Islands.  

 

 

 

 

Bergen's history is a saga of resilience and reinvention--a city shaped by the sea and defined by its indomitable spirit.  From Viking long ships to Hanseatic traders to modern cruise liners, Bergen continues to be a bridge between worlds, where history is not just preserved but lived every day. 

It was exciting to be back in this gateway city to the fjords again.  We have always driven through this town so it's a different experience to be on a cruise ship.  Now, both of us can just relax and enjoy the magnificent views instead of focusing on navigating our way through the town! (Plus, I'm a terrible navigator)!  Now, we have more  excitement ahead since our next port is new to us.  We will be visiting Torshavn, in the Faroe Islands. The adventures continue!