Wednesday, May 21, 2025 - St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada

Perched on the eastern edge of North America, St. John’s, Newfoundland, is a city where history and vibrancy collide in a riot of color and character. As the oldest and most easterly city on the Northern American continent, St. John’s is a living tapestry woven from centuries of maritime adventure, cultural resilience, and the indomitable spirit of its people. St. John’s history reads like an epic saga. European fishermen first sought its sheltered harbor in the early 1500s, drawn by the promise of the teeming Grand Banks just offshore. The city’s name, legend holds, comes from explorer John Cabot, who is said to have sailed into the harbor on June 24, 1497—St. John the Baptist’s feast day. Early maps marked it as São João, San Joham, and St. Jehan, reflecting the international scramble for its riches.

The 16th and 17th centuries saw St. John’s become a bustling seasonal outpost, its fortunes tied to the cod fishery. The town’s fortunes ebbed and flowed with the tides of empire: Dutch, French, and English navies vied for control, leaving behind a legacy of fortifications and battle-scarred hills. The British ultimately prevailed, and by the 1700s, St. John’s was the commercial heart of Newfoundland’s fishery, its population swelling with Irish immigrants seeking prosperity in the salt-laden air.

Fire and adversity were frequent visitors—devastating blazes in 1816, 1846, and 1892 razed much of the city, but each time St. John’s rose from the ashes, rebuilt and more vibrant than before. When Newfoundland joined Canada in 1949, St. John’s remained the proud capital, a role it continues to embrace.

Today, St. John’s dazzles with its famous “jellybean” row houses—brilliantly painted homes that spill down steep hillsides toward the bustling harbor, originally designed to guide sailors home through fog and storm. 

The city’s narrow, winding streets—once carved by horse and carriage—buzz with energy, from the historic Water Street, North America’s oldest commercial thoroughfare, to the lively pubs of George Street, where music and laughter spill into the night.

Tradition runs deep in St. John's.  Festivals like the St. John’s Regatta and George Street Festival celebrate the city’s maritime roots and musical soul. Hospitality is a way of life—here, strangers are friends not yet met, and a cup of tea is never far away. 

Landmarks like Signal Hill, crowned by the iconic Cabot Tower, and The Rooms, a striking cultural complex, anchor the city’s skyline and spirit. St. John’s is not just a city—it’s a living legend, where every brightly painted house, every salty breeze, and every note of a fiddle tune tells a story of survival, celebration, and the enduring magic of the Rock.

Our Tour:  St. John's Exploration 

Our drive began with a panoramic drive through the old town to view a few of the historic buildings.  

First. we saw the Government House, which is a majestic Palladian mansion of rough red sandstone and English Portland stone perched on a hill overlooking the harbor.  Built between 1827-1831 for Governor Sir Thomas Cochrane, it exudes colonial grandeur with its symmetrical facade, grand salons, and ornate plaster ceilings.  This stately residence, a National Historic Site, blends austere stonework with elegant interiors, embodying Newfoundland's rich heritage and the pomp of British colonial government.

As we continued our drive through downtown we passed the officer's club with its famous periscope piercing the roof of the Crow's Nest Officer's Club.  The periscope is a gleaming relic from the German U-boat U190,  Once a silent sentinel beneath wartime waves, now it offers a panoramic bird's-eye glimpse of St. John's harbor, blending history with vibrant maritime life.

The next stop on our drive was to view the Queen's Residence.  The residence is a charming three-story stone home with a striking brick facade built between 1854 and 1875.  It's unique five-sided Scotch dormer and two-story bay window add character, while its survival of the Great Fire of 1982 speaks to its resilience.  Nestled amid mature trees and gardens, this heritage gem radiates old-world elegance and stands as a colorful testament to St. John's rich architectural history.

Once we left the downtown area we drove to Quidi Vidi, a kaleidoscope of colorful fishing village with fish preparation areas and cozy cottages hugging the shimmering harbor known as "The Gut."  This charming enclave, rich with centuries-old code fishing heritage, allowed us to wander through its scenic area filled with artisan studios and small stands selling fresh-caught fish.  There was also the iconic Quidi Vidi Brewery, but decided it was too early in the day to indulge! The brewery is famous for crafting exceptional beers, including "iceberg beer," infused with the purest iceberg water!  As we walked through this historic village, we were struck with its timeless Newfoundland spirit and breathtaking coastal views.  It felt like we were stepping into a living postcard of maritime magic.

Our next stop was on top of Signal Hill, which is a breathtaking journey through history and nature.  It is perched high above the entrance to St. John's harbor.  Signal Hill National Historic Site stands as a proud sentinel of Canadian heritage.  Its windswept slopes and panoramic vistas of city and ocean tell tales of centuries past, where the echoes of military drills and the crackle of early radio transmissions once filled the air.  Located at the top on Signal Hill is  Cabot Tower where Marconi received the first trans-Atlantic wireless message at a position near the tower, the letter "S" in Morse Code sent from Cornwall, United Kingdom.

During our visit we were enchanted by the sweeping views and learning more about the significance of the site in the history of Canada.  It was designated in 1951 as a historic site because of its significance to the military and communications history of Canada.  Over time, it has come to symbolize the historic past of the city of St. John's.  Initially called "the Lookout",  the vast role that the site played in the communications history of Canada proved that the name "Signal" was greatly deserved. With fantastic views of planes approaching from the Atlantic to the city itself, Signal Hill played an important role in military signaling from 1704-1870.  In 1796, Signal Hill played a crucial defensive and communications role for St. John's.  As a French fleet threatened the city, British forces fortified Signal Hill, constructing the first permanent structure--a military blockhouse--devoted to flag signaling.  This allowed defenders to communicate ship arrivals and coordinate military actions.  The impressive display of troops and fortifications on Signal Hill created the illusion of a strong defensive force, which helped deter attacks on St. John's.  Signal Hill's strategic position and signaling capability were central to the city's successful defense in 1796.

Finally, our last point of interest was a drive past the vibrant Victorian-style houses in St. John's.  These houses are a dazzling spectacle of color, often called the "Jelly Bean Houses." Painted in candy-bright hues, these charming homes line the city's steep hills, standing out boldly against the frequent gray fog.  Their vivid colors, a 1970's heritage project, bring warmth and whimsy to the historic architecture, reflecting the city's spirited defiance of its often gloomy weather and celebrating its rich maritime past.

After an interesting, but very cold day, it was time for us to return to the pier and board our warm ship.  The weather has been bone-chilling cold and I was thrilled to be back on the ship.   Now, looking forward to a warm, relaxing evening.

Day 2: Wandering Around Town

Although Bob originally had a tour planned to walk along the coastal path outside of St. John's, he cancelled it due to concerns about the weather.  Later in the morning the tour was cancelled by the ship due to high winds. On the other hand, I elected to remain onboard and continue nursing my outrageous cold, Later in the day, Bob decided to go for a walk in the downtown area. 

 

The walk around town was a chilling (37 degrees F) and physically challenging experience since the town is mainly located up a steep hill for several blocks.  I was able to get up to the top where I visited the Basilica Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, the Rooms (museum), Government House, the Colonial Building, Bannerman Park and several streets with the Jelly Bean Houses. 

 

 

 

 

St. John's, Newfoundland, bursts with vibrant charm as North America's oldest city, where colorful jellybean houses cling to steep hillsides like a painter's palette against the Atlantic fog.  Historic streets wind through a lively tapestry of maritime heritage, folklore, and warm hospitality.  Signal Hill watches over a bustling harbor once teeming with fishing schooners.  Festivals, storytelling, and spirited traditions bring this contemporary yet timeless city to life, making it a dazzling gem on the rugged rock. 

 

It has been quite a few years since we had visited this area and we had forgotten how beautiful it is here.  The mix between historic and modern  make it an interesting mix of architecture and traditions.  We have thoroughly enjoyed reconnecting with this area and look forward to visiting again in the future.  However, it's now time for us to sail to our next port, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada.